Middle East 2019

A leisurely start yielded a lovely poolside breakfast where the layered pastry was actually good (croissants) and the usual omelette appreciated- buffet breakfast the best on this tour. Coffee a 4/10 up from a -2 on the cruise boat….

6 of us then bundled onto a boat to the West Bank (so nice and cool on the river….) and met up with camels for a ride up to St Simeon Monastery ,abandoned in the 13 th century. It was pretty much ruined by the last attack but perched on a hill had a great view and interesting story not to mention a flock of bats…. back onto the camels for the ride down- saddles not nearly as comfortable as the Bedouin ones…. we had an armed guard again with us for this trip from the tourist ministry.

Back at the hotel again Anne and I peeled off for a walk into town to visit the Coptic church and the Nubian Museum while most of the rest went to tour the Nubian village (we together with an elderly English couple, thought it too much like a spectacle but those who went seemed to enjoy it). It was a bit of a hike to the church which was huge and quite attractive – and Definitely cooler! A further hike to the museum where we walked most of the grounds (themselves worth seeing) before finally finding the entrance. The construction going on right at the entrance had fooled us. It was almost deserted, a nice change from the tourist throngs of the week, but rather dry. Very complicated history this region has being defeated by one people after another and then winning it back and calling themselves something else….

Another day of 37C though I see it’s going up to 41-42C next week- hotel staff tell me it goes to 50C regularly in the summer. Oooff …….I was done after the museum so split with Anna who wanted to take a ferry over to the southern part of the hotel island – my walk was very purposeful, back to the pool which although too warm, made you feel at least temporarily cool on getting out. There was only time for a little lying around, in the shade of course, before pack up and taking a ferry over to the mainland to catch the hotel car to the airport. The airport security was relatively lax though the sniffer dog was out at the dam and though I’d forgotten I’d packed half a bottle of water nothing was triggered at the security checkpoints.

And so here I wait, hoping that this next encounter with Cairo airport is kinder than the last, and that I manage to find the hotel shuttle on arrival.

Another great sleep and quiet night after the partiers settled down from the Nubian party at 10:30. One last breakfast (love those omelettes but won’t miss the vile coffee) and we did the through -the -next -boat- disembarkment manouevre one last time, onto another bus with our luggage and headed out for our last tour together.

First stop Aswan dam, guarded as noted by the military including tanks, due to its importance to Egypt. We learned it was 80% financed by Russia after Nassar refused the World Banks’ loan condition of ceasing to buy Russian guns and this is marked by a huge (and beautiful) friendship Centre on the Dam itself, in the shape of a lotus flower. The guide wouldn’t answer this question but I suspect the old looking guns the military are toting are Kalishnakovs. And very interesting hearing the history from an Arabic perspective – there was a comment that the Suez Canal was “nationalized to raise money for the Aswan dam” and no mention of the circumstances surrounding that…. In any case it is truly impressive, though not much to look at but though there was lots of foreign help in the engineering, respect for the number of huge engineering projects that Egypt has taken on. We talked about how many temples were moved above the dam reservoir level – 12 – but Ahmed dodged the question about how many were ruined by the dam. The next project on the go is a solar panel project partnered by Siemens – totally makes sense in this country, though the blowing sand is hard on everything. And to be done on large scale of course!

Next to Philae Temple by boat, one of those saved from the rising waters due to the dam. Lovely site, on an island, lots of tourists around again. Lots of Italians, some Spanish, Chinese, Japanes, a few Canadians and fewer Americans, unusually – Brits seem to make up the rest milling about. At least they dispersed speedily. It was getting quite hot by this time. Group pic on the wall of the last stop at the temple and then back to the mainland to visit an essential oils place where there was a hard sell of “medicinal” essential oils after a very skilled glassblowing demonstration (they make the perfume bottles there – what a hot occupation in this climate!) and talk on the history of essential oils – but we were offered tea, coffee and the local hibiscus drink (karderah) which was delicious and the Turkish coffee was the best cup I’ve had in Egypt (very reviving). The collection of perfume bottles was extraordinary.

Purchases made (most went for some oils – sad to report my cold is still present after inhaling the mint cure during the demo ha ha) we moved on to the Unfinished Obelisk. This was found in a granite stone quarry and showed the ingenious way of cutting out the stone using wood expanding with water as well as stone tools. It was brutally hot here, now about 1:30 p.m. and it has been in the mid 30’s to upper 30’s at this time of the day for the last couple of days – today was 37 C feeling like 39C according to the forecast. But quite fascinating to contemplate the logistics of moving such large and heavy blocks once completed, by boat to Karnak, Luxor and Hapteschut’s temple (not to mention relocating them to London, Rome and Paris recently). The one in this quarry was abandoned after about 7 months painstaking work due to a large crack that developed.

Again noting that the vendors here are much less aggressive, we ran the gauntlet out of the site and back to the Centre of town to check into the Movenpick which is on an island. A huge complex – and respect to our bus driver who dropped us off at the ferry maneuvering in a very small parking lot; we were all wondering how he would get out of there with another bus coming down the one lane road. We scurried across on the ferry to the hotel reception and played the “check in game” which is tedious in a group and worse today as they wanted photocopies of our passports. Luggage arrived by the time it was all sorted out and we were on our own until 5 p.m. Stopping only to drop off luggage and change I was the first in the lovely, lovely pool. Appearing at the entrance, you are escorted to your selection of umbrella/chairs which is set up for you. A lovely lunch of chocolate milkshake (which I suspect they don’t do often given the interesting thin suspension that arrived – albeit tasty) and goat cheese arugula by the pool was quite reviving.

I sorted out my ride to the airport tomorrow with the hotel desk which surprisingly provides a car without the usual hotel exboritant cost – then onto a Feluca for a sunset sail. Very touristy indeed but quite fun albeit there was very little wind after being quite windy all day. Part way through the sail two bags were produced by the crew – yup, souvenirs……. Really not much sunset colours, but it was cool on the river and very enjoyable.

A brisk walk after dinner around the island as far as we could go with Anna and Christina (the Belgians) and visit to the Movenpick tower lounge on the other building – an eyesore but a gorgeous view of town – about finished me off and I bowed out of a trip into town to search for baklava and tea and retreated to my room to unpack a bit and get cleaned up – and more, to rest. This cold is still eating up a great deal of energy, although I am quite happy that I am still able to function and have not yet been laid flat. I suspect jet lag will accomplish that, but at least I’ll be at home then.

And yay, there is a kettle in the room and the first functioning ac I’ve had since Cairo! Life is good.

The journey home begins tomorrow, but another tour awaits in the morning by boat and camel to St. Simeon monastery.

Memories of the day – HOT, HOT, HOT. Fabulous glasswork. Bartering and extraordinary engineering both modern and ancient.

Who said this part of the holiday would be more relaxing????

A 4 a.m. wake up call started out today getting together day trip stuff for a 4:30 bus start to Abu Simbel, about 4 hours away. At 4:21 after we were given our takeout breakfasts rumours of coffee and tea upstairs percolated the consciousness and there was a mad scramble to get at least one cup in before departure (vile though it is…). Absconding with one of the boat’s pillows stuffed into my pack (not a theft as it sounds, only borrowing as we return tonight), we piled onto the bus and were off. It became more like 5 hours there with a toilet stop in the middle of nowhere, and a long security lineup at one checkpoint. Lots of evidence of police, and soldiers guarding Aswan dam bridge with tanks and machine guns (which look ancient – and their body armour doesn’t look up to much either, alas). The route we were on goes close to the Sudan border where the military are watchful. Once past the first checkpoint we were quickly into the real desert and everyone hunkered down for a good sleep. Always comfy in a bus…. breakfast was bread, more bread, and stodgy pastry. Yum.

We learned on arrival at Abu Simbel that its move wasn’t physically far, but the logistics of moving it up 60 m to keep above the level of Lake Nassar – created with the building of the Aswan dam – are pretty astonishing. You can see the cuts in the stone, but it was a pretty phenomenal job. Discovered originally by a French archaeologist who was on site with his son Simbel, when people came to see it first the young son told them the site belonged to him and his father (Abu meaning father) hence it was dubbed Abu Simbel….. a monument to Ramses III who made himself a God, its intent was to threaten the Syrians after the peace treaty not to come near Egypt again. Very reminiscent of the statues guarding Gondor along the waterway in “Lord of the Rings”…. though clearly it is the other way around.

There is also a temple to Queen Nefertiti and we were given a synopsis of what to look for inside both, which helps to understand the wall stories, and sent on our way. They both were stunning. Masses there to start with but the crowds dissipated by the time we left at 11 am; good for retakes of pics without the madding crowd. Extra here for a photography ticket again – the government is making lots with this new fee. It’s amazing to watch some of the people taking photos – selfies all the way around, and so engrossed with picture taking they’re not really looking – or barking orders to people to wait while boyfriend takes picture of girlfriend in the entrance, blocking egress AND ingress, while she fluffs up her hair and poses. Egads. Apparently something like 90% of the worlds pictures have been taken in the last two years with the explosion of phone cameras, which is entirely believable watching the behaviour this trip.

Vendors at sites, in towns, and on shore have been extraordinarily pushy and obnoxious – no engagement at all is needed to get through the vendors alleys set up on arrival and departure at a site which is hard for most – even a “no thank you” is engagement and there are multiple tricks played to engage/trick you into buying, so hands in closed position are also required to avoid people running up and sticking things in your hands. We found the Abu Simbel group much less aggressive, and consequently were able to do some souvenir shopping in relative peace – had the others been similar they would have gotten more business, methinks.

Then it was back on the bus for the journey back to Aswan, noting on the way the presence of a “mirage” in the sand – a realistic looking lake due to light reflection on hot flat sand.

A quick lunch then saw us with a free afternoon – I walked into town with one of the Belgian girls (quite a hike from our steerage in the sticks) and wandered through the bazaar. Today is apparently a national holiday celebrating the departure of the last Israeli soldier from the Sinai peninsula – so there were lots of people out and about. It never feels unsafe wandering around, though the constant “buy this, where are you from” can be very annoying. We ended up in an instrument shop where the owner, a musician, gave us a demo of some drums and tambourine like looking instruments, and turned out to speak not only Flemish but French and some German as well as English. He had travelled in cultural exchanges in a band all over the world and was a very interesting guy. Anna will return on Saturday evening with her Belgian traveling friend to have tea and purchase a small drum, and will have an interesting story to tell about its history. We stopped for tea on the way home and altogether have done 12,000 steps today according to Anna’s counter!

Dinner followed by packing and another day is over. The end is alarmingly near.

Memories of today: sand, glorious sand; huge imposing statues looking out from the temple; bad fish smells in the market; hot/humid in the afternoon; the hilarious New Zealand mother and daughter at dinner

Woke to a new location, in Edfu – another lovely window view of the next moored ship :-(. The ride is very smooth in this boat and despite going upstream it is moving reasonably quickly. The confusing part is that we are going south, and yet upriver (against the flow of the river) – seems completely backwards to my North American mind.

Edfu was interesting, a more modern temple with what seemed like a maze of anterooms, and stairs and extra corridors and….. it was a complicated but very impressive building. Only sparse pigment left alas. We were taken by horse carriage in pairs through town to the site which was about 20 mins from the dock – many of us feeling uncomfortable about the condition of the horses, and especially those who had made to the animal care Egypt Centre yesterday. I think that will be in the feedback to Exodus – use tuktuks instead… coming back it was HOT and there was incredible congestion down the Main Street, not least because of the numbers of tourists. That’s one thing that will stand out for me for Edfu – the boats arrived pretty well all at once and there were MASSES of people at the temple.

Back on the boat again we settled into our deck chairs to watch the Nile banks go by – interesting. A rail station appearing to be in the middle of nothing sported many people waiting for a train though we never did see any go by. The bird life is decent with herons, egrets, kingfishers, terns, osprey, and others feeding on the shores and many green islands in the middle of the river (as were cows and goats). Rice paddies and banana plantations seem to be the two main crops.

Some enterprising vendors hilariously attached themselves by rowboat to the side of the cruise boats and sold wares from there, with excellent arms to throw onto the sun decks – money paid was sent to an opened towel below and remarkably, no accidents occurred. The afternoon was really hot despite the river breeze but the cool swimming pool was very refreshing to counter the temperatures. Tea was served at 4 p.m. and then at 4:30 we headed out to visit Kam Obo, a temple to the crocodile god. Again, jam packed with tour groups, but there was at least some staggering this time. Of note here were the first pictures of surgical instruments and birthing beds (see pics). The visit ended with a tour through the crocodile museum to see mummified crocodiles, which were found in the hundreds in a crocodile tomb site nearby.

Tonights program includes dinner followed by a Galabaya party (the Egyptian robe) where we are invited to dress up as the staff will. I suspect I will be horizontal after dinner given the cold I have…. The tour company seems to have left the bookings for Abu Simbel flights too late so there is no space now to fly and the only alternative is a 4 hour bus ride each way tomorrow – 4 a.m. wake up call for same (flight is 40 mins each direction and only have to be at the airport 1/2 hour beforehand as no baggage). Sigh.

Memories of today – the masses at Edfu, relaxing on the Nile (in the shade) on the sun deck, and trying to find the boat after Kam Obo as it had moved during our time on shore!

Today was the visit to the Valley of the Kings, before the boat moved on. Tour bus took us to the entrance, full of milling crowds as usual – we fought our way through security and onto trolleys which took us to the mid point. There were multiple additional extra options which made it confusing but our tour guide gave us a brief overview and headed us out as guides were not allowed to work within the tombs due to traffic flow.

To clarify, the Valley of the Kings is the area discovered by English archeologist Howard Carter who uncovered Tutankhamen’s tomb there but subsequently more than 60 tombs have been found (unfortunately with no contents, hence the fame of Tutankhamen). Only about half have been identified, but the heiroglyphics and painting left are extraordinary. We had to choose from the open tombs 3 “free” ones and most of us also purchased tickets to Ramses 6 which we started with, and had almost entirely to ourselves. Stunning. The paint pigments have survived more than 1600 years, and the Art decorating the underground passageways is truly amazing. By the last tomb the milling crowds had developed to long queues inside every tomb and it was HOT – this area is completely in the desert, super arid. No pictures – sorry folk, I didn’t cough up the 300 Egyptian pounds extra for this as I didn’t think they’d turn out. Google “valley of the kings” and I’m sure you’ll find lots….

After that we were taken to an Alabaster factory (apparently a local trade) and then on to Queen Hapteschut’s (sp?) temple – quite an interesting story from our guide about the family intrigue played out in his presentation pulling members from our group in to represent family members of the royals. That area (on the other side of the Valley of the Kings) was also HOT so we were happy to reconvene for transport back to the boat by hired boat instead of the road, and finally back to the cruise boat which then finally sailed. Tea at 4 p.m., cocktails at 7 p.m. and we all dressed up for dinner. At least, the Brits clearly brought cruise clothes, and I pulled out my one skirt brought for mosque visits (not nearly in the same class). At least I didn’t show up in my baggy bike shorts (I took seriously the instructions to bring very baggy shorts so as not to offend the locals….). We spent some time on deck hoping to see the boat progressing through the loch however I had to give up as the URTI (cold) was making me feel miserable and crashed early. Sunset on the Nile was pretty – I heard in the morning we finally got through about 10 pm. – there was some sort of selection in the lineup of cruise boats as to who went when I guess, though I couldn’t figure it out as there were several that came in after us that seemed to pass us by?

Ah, the 2:30 a.m. wake up call – didn’t happen, glad I set my iPhone.  Nor did they repair the bedside light yesterday….but they did arrive at 3:00 a.m to check the minibar…. suspiciously many people were told they had used things, which they had not, and had to sign disclaimers saying they had not…. We blearily collected in the lobby at 3:15 a.m., were handed cakeboxes with breakfast (yoghurt, awful bread and pound cake) and yes, there were latecomers…. we stumbled onto the bus and went for another awesome Cairo airport experience for our flight to Luxor.
Just as you pass security at the door (after passport control and police checkpoint at the entrance) you notice you are in another line immediately.  Yes, this is Egyptair checkin which to their credit moved very swiftly with all booths manned.  Massive crowds.  We were directed to F52, another security checkpoint with shoes off before going down two floors to the waiting room.  Announcement over the PA about 20” later, our flight had been moved to F51 so we all scramble up the two flights of stairs and over a gate to another waiting room that was JAMMED.  Eventually after another announcement about 1/3 of the people there realized they had been moved to our gate and there was a mad scramble as it was now suddenly “last boarding call” for them???  And after waiting another 1/2 hour standing around (no seats) it turns out that both gates just collect people by bus anyway????  I reckon there is someone behind the sciences giggling at the game of “confuse the tourists”.  In the end we only left 1/2 hr late, completely full flight, thanks to the taxiing starting before the last people had stowed their luggage and sat down…. (did I mention yesterday that in the Egyptian Museum I watched with interest a scaffolding being moved on wheels while a person was standing on it?).
Crowds galore at the other end trying to go to the WC (which so far have been way better than I expected apart from on board Egyptair), collecting luggage and getting to their tour buses.  We went immediately to Karnak Temple where we spent a couple of hours marveling at the size, scope and artistry in the heat (definitely warmer down south), then 1/2 hr to wander around on our own and meet back at the bus – yup, people were late again.  Over to Luxor temple where there was more interesting history but we were all beginning to wilt, having not eaten since 3 a.m. and standing around in the heat…. so were all glad to check in to the boat and grab some food.  Boat is third off the dock so need to cross two to get on which is a bit weird.  Not a bad buffet at all, and joy to be able to unpack.   Did some laundry, gratefully had a shower after first going around the room with wet wipes – it was pretty filthy.  Unfortunately, I am starting a cold and getting fairly congested – so no extra energy to walk into town (very close to Luxor Centre).    And no kettle in the room, alas.  I passed on the visit to the Animal Care Egypt Centre and have no interest in the Light and Sound Show at Karnak tonight so will hopefully be able to rest up a little.
Aside – most of the Brits as per their usual have turned bright red today as did the Icelanders.  Sunscreen seems to be a hidden gem?

Day #1 of Egypt tour.
Queen Alia airport provided a decent if busy lounge, after I was delivered to the airport by a cocky young man who was 20 mins late for pickup.  The plane left on time, but the flight wasn’t the most pleasant – a grossly obese man squeezed into the third row of economy had his eye on being upgraded to business class, and was very put out when his wish wasn’t granted – and also when the first row, with extra legroom, was declined.  The rest of the trip was taken up with angry outbursts which a senior steward repeatedly and patiently dealt with…. the fellow ahead of me, who had the best seat of the extra legroom first row, then leant back his chair to fill tilt – meanwhile I’m crushed into the worst legroom I’ve experienced for a long time.  And the bathroom was the filthiest I’ve ever seen on an airplane.  Go, Egyptair.
However it did deliver me to Cairo and I got out of customs etc very quickly only to wait 1/2 hour for the first bags to appear on the carousel.  I’d previously booked a ride through Mozio and wasn’t too worried as they give 1/2 hour grace period.  Having retrieved luggage finally I got to the inside arrivals hall where my ride was supposed to be posting my name.  Nothing but a line of men trying to foist taxis on one.  Tried to log onto airport wifi but of course they want your phone number to send a verification code, and the phone is off….. so quickly switched on and through what’s app tried to get hold of mozio.  They directed me out of the arrivals hall outside the building where my ride was supposedly waiting.  Did same, and panned up and down the line of names being held up several times – nada.  Back on the with the phone to try calling this time, in desperation – told again they’re there.  No they’re not, says I – oh okay, I’ll call you back.  Wait a couple of minutes, phone still on roaming, nothing, what’s app again then back to the terminal building.  Or tried, directed by police to a security entrance where my bags were again screened and I went over to Vodafone to get a local SIM card (Telus now telling me I have $50 worth of roaming charges… what a rip).  Mission accomplished, my Telus SIM snapped into place on the Vodafone card and back on the line to Mozio, now 30” after first call – now I”m told to take a taxi as the driver has “had a problem” and won’t be coming.  Awesome.  Taking a taxi at midnight was what I was attempting to avoid…. so into the fray, start to negotiate and the first two are charging about double the normal rate, find someone who’s got an official badge on, white new looking taxi who agrees to the usual rate so off we go.  I have the address written in Arabic in case this happens but he still clearly has no idea where the hotel is as we set off, and tries to negotiate an extra $5 USD as he tells me that’s how much his parking is at the airport.  He backs down though and calls his company (I think) to get directions and off we go at screaming speed down the motorway with some pretty wild driving.  We drive on, and on, and on….. main motorways but weaving in and out of traffic and clearly the lines for lanes on the road are merely suggestions.  Then a heated engine smell pervading the car permeates my consciousness and I notice that his warning lights and engine block lights are on (prob since the beginning?) and about now I really start praying with images of not having a clue where I am, stuck with this mad taxi driver on a motorway in Cairo…
Driver has several conversations on the phone (while driving of course) to get further directions I assume, one of them quite angry.
Eventually we reach a sign that says Alexandria Road and I get peppered with questions – here? Where?  As it looks like a line of hotels I assert this looks right and he does a u-turn on the Main Street (fortunately not a ton of traffic at this time in the morning but I doubt he’d be doing anything differently during the daytime) and asks me which Pyramids Hotel it is – I didn’t know there was more than one? So direct him to the Steenberger Pyramids Hotel sign and he honks at the closed gate – the attendant takes a few seconds to get up so driver starts to take off again – yelling at him to stop, the gate opens, we go in and TG it is the correct hotel.  Pay my mad driver and am met by Exodus rep with room key and instructions for tomorrow.  Suggestion to Exodus – organize an airport transfer for everyone, not just the group flight – like in Jordan, given the shenanigans at the airport.  Not a pleasant way to start a trip.
Bellhop takes case and sets off at brisk pace down a hotel and I scurry along afterwards – we walk and walk and walk (or jog) and then up an elevator one floor and walk some more – this hotel is immense.  Ensconced in my room at last, completely shattered,  I am pleased to see a kettle, and nice digs with a balcony although morning determines no view of pyramids. That definitely rates as the worst airport transfer experience in my history.  To top it off I discover that the Telus SIM card has disappeared from my Vodafone card…..
A few hours sleep yields a better outlook and I’m happy to see a good buffet breakfast. Meet up with Exodus group in the lobby at 8 a.m. – totally different demographic this time.  There are a few people from Belgium, a couple from Iceland, a couple of New Zealanders and the rest are Brits – total of 20.  Late to join the group is Joyce from Malaysia originally but living in London – portending things to come.  And apparently we are meeting up later with Tony, who missed his flight yesterday in London….
After group paperwork we pile into a big bus and are whisked off to the Egyptian Museum, off Takhir Square – famous for the protests in 20111 and 2013 – sniffer dogs around the bus, police checkpoint to go through, and armed security guard accompanying us all day.  They are determined not to disrupt the tourist industry again, as it was economic disaster when it collapsed after the Arab spring.  It actually feels pretty safe, though I don’t put much faith in the above precautions – I think if someone wanted to do something, they could as throughout the day we passed police checkpoints with members fully engaged on their phone, most people were just waved through anyway, and some were asleep.  
Anyway back to the museum, which is to move to a gorgeous new location (billions of dollars to build) in 2020 just down the road from our hotel.  There is a large number of tourists lined up outside the museum and security again at the entrance – eventually we shuffle through and those of us who want to take pictures pay extra for the privilege.  And of course someone in the group gets into trouble for taking a camera inside without a photo ticket despite being told by the guide it wasn’t good enough to say you just wanted to take photos outside…. we don receivers and earphones to listen to our guide/Egyptologist take us around the highlights – like the Louvre, one could spend weeks in here.  Phenomenal place.  Ahmed , our guide, is fabulous – clearly very knowledgeable and good delivery.  We spent most of the morning here, and after our tours were given 1/2 hour free time then instructed to meet outside the exit.  Tutankhamen’s relics were particularly impressive but the whole experience was reminiscent of the Nairobi Antrhopology museum with drawers upon drawers of artifacts from the Rift Valley……After waiting 1/2 hour longer for tardy tour members we went on to see the oldest mosque, where we get a lesson on Moslem religion (had it in Jordan, and it was hot in the square), then a brief stroll around the market nearby which was mostly closed anyway due to it being the equivalent of Sunday, plus a voting day (new constitution vote underway).
So now it’s 1:30 and we’re all starving.  Breakfast at 6:30 – apparently the group flight picked up from the airport was instructed to purloin some items from breakfast to take with them – thanks a bunch, nobody told me that (and a few others left out of the loop).  It would have been easy to stop on the motorway entrances/exits for some fruits for people as we did in Jordan? Or a mini mart for snacks as we did in Jordan?  Luckily I had an “elevate me” bar in my bag so wasn’t completely bereft but…..
So it was off through completely choked traffic to Giza.  Could have walked the first mile much faster…. But eventually we made it to the pyramids and the sphinx – some chose to crawl inside to the tomb for an extra $20 USD but I felt my life would still be complete without this so wandered around the outside admiring the view, the armed guards (this bunch were vigilant) and the pushy souvenir vendors, camel ride offers etc.  Our guide had prepped us on the current scams which was helpful…. The size of Cheop’s pyramid is amazing, and the Sphinx was disappointingly deteriorated and adjacent to a complete mess leftover from the drawing of the Africa Nations’ cup last weekend.  A quick stop to learn how to make papyrus next before at last returning to the hotel where we were on our own for dinner.  Initially thinking I’d go out with others for local food, I heard the arrangements being made to meet in 1/2 hour  then walk to the restaurant.  After a week of Middle Eastern mezze in Jordan it wasn’t attractive enough to wait another hour to eat so bailed and went with others to the poolside restaurant at the hotel where food and drink was more imminent and a pleasant time was all.  We became horizontal early in prep for a 2:30 a.m.wake up the next day to catch a 6 a.m. flight to Luxor – brutal….

Not a super cold night but relatively glad of sleeping bag and the thermals were just the trick both for sleeping and undercover for the chill of the morning activities.

The morning started at 5:30 with tea/coffee and then we mounted camels to view the sunrise. All present, though some apprehensive – some growling beasts, and some very cute babies. We were reassured that the camels were very well treated by the Bedouin and they looked healthy and were affectionate with their owner, a good sign. We were selected for size and pointed to various beasts which we mounted and held on for dear life as they tilted forward and backward sharply rising and stepping down. Once on though they were suprisingly comfortable though when I crossed my front leg in front a la Lawrence of Arabia I was directed back to traditional horse riding posture. Happily my beast was in front leading the pack and off we set. The babies accompanied their mothers walking alongside and there were intermittent grunts from the camels – mine particularly when getting up, I certainly don’t blame him. Again, there were other camel trains encountered but less than people yesterday so we had a relatively quiet rendering of sunrise including some birdsongs. Very pretty. We were walked back to camp where we had a leisurely breakfast (noting that we all now smelled of campfire), packed up and headed out for a rendezvous with our big bus again, for the big city of Amman and the end of the tour. Most of us slept during the 4 hour journey, with pit stops (gas stations tended to have junky souvenir shops but excellent clean bathrooms), a brief stop for falafel sandwiches fetched to the bus by our trusty guide and then it was back in the traffic. Checked into the same lousy hotel as we started in, but only needed to have a shower and repack before heading out to the airport at 6 p.m. – that is if the flight leaves….. learning not to hold my breath. Of course the shower didn’t work, and there was no hairdryer…. there’s a kettle in this hotel, but no plug for it. Aiyayai…..

Goodbye dinner is tonight, and one of the members has made a humorous “awards ceremony” type presentation for it but I am heading to the airport so met with the group for a drink mid afternoon to say goodbye. No bar of course – doesn’t open until 5 p.m. supposedly…. Great group, there was no strife, nobody annoying and a very congenial bunch – a good start to my first “tour” (not counting trekking holidays for some reason). We have set up a chat group in what’s app which is going off no end at this moment with the bike guide sharing pictures and hope to get others as well – most folk are going directly home.

And hoping to find a lounge at Queen Alia airport once I make it through security etc……

Memories of the day: Camels! Sad to say goodbye to our excellent guide and fun group, and hope I come across some of the group members again in future trips.

We started with a beach resort visit to a surprisingly lovely spot on the Red Sea. Surprising as the Dead Sea resort we’d previously been to was less than stellar, and because there is so much industry on the Red Sea being the only port for Jordan, ?Isreal (Eilat) and access also for Saudi Arabia – all four countries have a piece of the area. The sand was lovely, the sun was out and although it was only 9 a.m. it was a pleasant temp. Most of us hired snorkeling gear and it was also suprisingly good despite being near shore. There was only time for a brief snorkel, which for me was curtailed as I was getting seasick (very very gentle swell, just me!), a quick dip in the top pool and admiring the view from poolside over palm trees, bougainvillea to a lovely azure blue Red Sea. No pics I’m afraid as I left my phone on the bus for safety; will get some later from the group photo share.

Then it was on to Wadi Rum where we met with the bike folks for the last time and pedalled into the reserve. Very busy with buses etc going in, but a lovely ride, mostly flat, amongst various colors of sand and rock and complete with genuine sandstorm as there was a brisk (fortunately tail) wind. The odd time when we did hit the headwind it was pretty strong! We bid adieu to our lovely bike guides and mediocre bikes and set out in our Toyota pickup converted to passenger benches a la Bedouin style for our camp.

About ten minutes across the surprisingly firm sand (apparently the tire pressure is let to really low to help) we arrived at a lovely quiet spot set in a niche and were welcomed with tea and assigned tents. Not like camping at all – shower present and excellent toilets, as well as a proper bed and a functioning light switch at night. We unraveled our sleeping bags and set off in small groups for a walk – together with English Adam and Michelle we covered quite a bit of ground, discovered a fair amount of traffic in the area, passing us on what appeared to be a “main road” and were surprised to find a day tripper type lodge complete with souvenir shop… we did see a camel train though, and some lovely rock formations.

Back at camp many of the group were getting ready for the sunset ride by donning recently acquired native headgear and adjusted for the face covereage soon to be needed it looked like a bunch of desperados setting out. I haven’t laughed so much for a long time as I did watching the creation and assemblage of the motley crew, made better by the fact that all the women (bar me) had purchased cotton “camel pants” in Petra (camel patterned in different colours) and all assembled it was quite a sight. At 5 p.m. we loaded back into the trucks with a brisk wind blowing a fair bit of sand around so that we were all pretty quickly impregnated with sand particles in all layers – great to have the face coverage (the Himalayan Rescue Society neck/face scarf from Everest proved its worth again). The expedition for sunset however was a bit of a zoo – there were so many vehicles out, from so many different camps tucked into every corner -though none as nice as ours – that it was literally rush hour in Wadi Rum. We all parked eventually at the same rock after some interesting stops with our Bedouin guide who explained a bit about their lifestyle and the things they used to survive in the desert. Everyone trooped to the top of said rock and we sat in the wind waiting for the sunset. Meh. Too many people, and the view included a Mars like space camp directly in the shot(s). Incidentally it was pointed out to us which part “The Martian” was shot in so I’ll have to resee that movie when I get back – certainly it is alien like country in appearance but beautiful as well.

On return to camp we were treated to a demonstration of how to make the local bread – pretty impressive and very tasty – over a campfire, then dinner was unearthed. Literally – it had been cooking underground for 3 hours in the traditional Bedouin way. No protein for vegetarians, lamb and the ubiquitous chicken for the others but delicious veggies and the rice was superb. Quite an ingenious cooking method. We then had a concert with the local one stringed instrument and simultaneous singing – suffice it to say none of us will be searching out recordings. Clearly an acquired taste.

Under a full moon and unspectacular stars we headed to bed for an early start the next day. It was a long, interesting and very varied day. Packing had been complex as we had to leave most of our stuff in our cases on the bus and I managed to forget my contact lens case – however luckily had an emergency saline vial in my purse and together with two tea cups was able to store them overnight. (Is it safe to let me out?)

Memories of the day – suiting up in local headgear, riding through Wadi Rum on bike, snorkeling.

We loaded up from Petra Palace Hotel and headed up the hill to meet up with our bike crew.  At a souvenier shop parking lot perched at the top of the hill with a marvellous vista we did a pit stop and loaded up for the longest ride of our trip.  The local dog ran off with my glove in its mouth but fortunately retrieved it…  

Some up and down was followed by some lovely downhill, punctuated by short and steep hills then the promised big hill arrived.  Glad I’d had a few days of prep work!  Most ended up walking and a few hopped on the bus but happy to report I sidewinded my way up everything today….. The countryside is arid with red rock outcroppings and Bedouin camps intermittently, camels, goats and sheep (and the ubiquitous dogs and cats) appearing out of nowhere…  At the top of the worst hill with a stunning view we stopped for water replenishment, a group photo and then headed down.  Hutzah, it was really steep in parts, with evil curves.  Two of us had flats, happily not going down fast, and likely due to heat from braking.  Apart from being stuck behind a slow person for a short period, I don’t think I would have wanted to use less brakes down that….  Wheels were quickly changed by the support person (it feels a little like being in a race as the support car appears beside one and quickly switches out the wheel…) and we carried on.  It turned to lovely undulating territory of the best kind, where the whizzing down one hill got you to the top of the uphill, and although we had another couple of 14% grade hills they were much shorter and we progressed to low grade downhill  through open desert.  A brief picnic lunch stop of pita, falafel and fruit was appreciated before we headed out for the last 10 km.  The final 7 km were on the main highway towards Aqaba (90 km away), not so nice especially with a preponderance of idiot motorcycles going at ridiculous speeds on the straight roads (estimated up to 180 km/hr).  Organ donors, Darwinian selection…..

So we boarded the bus and headed for Aqaba, the place that Lawrence of Arabia took from the desert side… it’s a bit bigger now!  From Aqaba you can see four countries, Israel on the right, Egypt on the left and Saudi Arabia in the background hills also on the left.  The Red Sea is a lovely colour….  Jordan and Israeli governments have cordial relationships but I sense some tension from Arab people.  

Hotel rooms were not ready on arrival and when we did get in our rooms there were no towels…. still being cleaned and dried… laundry done, I was itching to shower and finally damp towels were delivered at 4:40 p.m.  This hotel has a kettle though and is generally more upmarket than those we’ve been in so far – though sporting a lovely view from my window of the wall of the next block 4′ away.    

On finally receiving towels and showering I went out for a walk to see the local shopping – too far from the beach to walk there- we will visit tomorrow.  Picked up some curry leaves and a curry powder from Saudi Arabia, should be interesting… and had a very nice pistachio ice cream which I figured I deserved after today’s cycling!

Dinner at a fish restaurant at 7 p.m.  Tomorrow’s packing will be tricky as we go to Wadi Rum only with hand baggage.  Planning ahead to include a beach stop at 9 a.m. (snorkelling perhaps?), then a 20 km cycle into Wadi Rum.  Ironically the guide tells us that we have to get there by noon as there is only a single road and it gets too busy after that….. rush hour in Wadi Rum sounds bad!

No post tomorrow as no internet or electricity.

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