Day 6 – from beach to Desert

We started with a beach resort visit to a surprisingly lovely spot on the Red Sea. Surprising as the Dead Sea resort we’d previously been to was less than stellar, and because there is so much industry on the Red Sea being the only port for Jordan, ?Isreal (Eilat) and access also for Saudi Arabia – all four countries have a piece of the area. The sand was lovely, the sun was out and although it was only 9 a.m. it was a pleasant temp. Most of us hired snorkeling gear and it was also suprisingly good despite being near shore. There was only time for a brief snorkel, which for me was curtailed as I was getting seasick (very very gentle swell, just me!), a quick dip in the top pool and admiring the view from poolside over palm trees, bougainvillea to a lovely azure blue Red Sea. No pics I’m afraid as I left my phone on the bus for safety; will get some later from the group photo share.

Then it was on to Wadi Rum where we met with the bike folks for the last time and pedalled into the reserve. Very busy with buses etc going in, but a lovely ride, mostly flat, amongst various colors of sand and rock and complete with genuine sandstorm as there was a brisk (fortunately tail) wind. The odd time when we did hit the headwind it was pretty strong! We bid adieu to our lovely bike guides and mediocre bikes and set out in our Toyota pickup converted to passenger benches a la Bedouin style for our camp.

About ten minutes across the surprisingly firm sand (apparently the tire pressure is let to really low to help) we arrived at a lovely quiet spot set in a niche and were welcomed with tea and assigned tents. Not like camping at all – shower present and excellent toilets, as well as a proper bed and a functioning light switch at night. We unraveled our sleeping bags and set off in small groups for a walk – together with English Adam and Michelle we covered quite a bit of ground, discovered a fair amount of traffic in the area, passing us on what appeared to be a “main road” and were surprised to find a day tripper type lodge complete with souvenir shop… we did see a camel train though, and some lovely rock formations.

Back at camp many of the group were getting ready for the sunset ride by donning recently acquired native headgear and adjusted for the face covereage soon to be needed it looked like a bunch of desperados setting out. I haven’t laughed so much for a long time as I did watching the creation and assemblage of the motley crew, made better by the fact that all the women (bar me) had purchased cotton “camel pants” in Petra (camel patterned in different colours) and all assembled it was quite a sight. At 5 p.m. we loaded back into the trucks with a brisk wind blowing a fair bit of sand around so that we were all pretty quickly impregnated with sand particles in all layers – great to have the face coverage (the Himalayan Rescue Society neck/face scarf from Everest proved its worth again). The expedition for sunset however was a bit of a zoo – there were so many vehicles out, from so many different camps tucked into every corner -though none as nice as ours – that it was literally rush hour in Wadi Rum. We all parked eventually at the same rock after some interesting stops with our Bedouin guide who explained a bit about their lifestyle and the things they used to survive in the desert. Everyone trooped to the top of said rock and we sat in the wind waiting for the sunset. Meh. Too many people, and the view included a Mars like space camp directly in the shot(s). Incidentally it was pointed out to us which part “The Martian” was shot in so I’ll have to resee that movie when I get back – certainly it is alien like country in appearance but beautiful as well.

On return to camp we were treated to a demonstration of how to make the local bread – pretty impressive and very tasty – over a campfire, then dinner was unearthed. Literally – it had been cooking underground for 3 hours in the traditional Bedouin way. No protein for vegetarians, lamb and the ubiquitous chicken for the others but delicious veggies and the rice was superb. Quite an ingenious cooking method. We then had a concert with the local one stringed instrument and simultaneous singing – suffice it to say none of us will be searching out recordings. Clearly an acquired taste.

Under a full moon and unspectacular stars we headed to bed for an early start the next day. It was a long, interesting and very varied day. Packing had been complex as we had to leave most of our stuff in our cases on the bus and I managed to forget my contact lens case – however luckily had an emergency saline vial in my purse and together with two tea cups was able to store them overnight. (Is it safe to let me out?)

Memories of the day – suiting up in local headgear, riding through Wadi Rum on bike, snorkeling.