Up at 5 a.m, out the door at 6:15 with breakfast of croissant, yoghourt and fruit (and room coffee as the lobby wasn’t yet open). It was bright daylight when I got out the door, had expected it to be dark. Over to the metro and quickly caught the first train, but unfortunately it must have been a limited express and it didn’t stop at Inari station. Got off at the station prior when I discovered it wasn’t stopping at mine, changed lines and was patting myself on the back for managing that, but it was quite a delay for the next train. When it did come, my map app told me to get on, so I did but alas it went straight to Kyoto main station, without stopping anywhere else so I had to backtrack. The two goofs added an extra 1/2 hr to my journey which was annoying after the early start to beat the crowds…good thing I’m on holiday 😊
Still pretty quiet by the time I got to Inari shrine, so the hike up and around the mountain was relatively peaceful. Some nice views, and a pretty trail with all the gates lining it. Definitely is a stair master on steroids though, I had sweat marks on my tshirt by the time I got to the top and was wishing I’d worn shorts. The weather forecast had predicted rain by 10 a.m. so I had started with fleece and rainjacket which quickly were discarded!
Quite a nice forest, with birds singing and signs warning of boars and monkeys (none seen).
not as benign as this apparently gentle uphill seems to imply!
Many nationalities and languages heard enroute, with the universal language of “out of breath!”. There are side paths to shrines in multiple locations, and another loop you can do off the main hike; I started to take it but it went rapidly downhill and both wasn’t sure where it was going, and didn’t want to add more stairs to the effort so I abandoned that trail shortly (there was no one else on it)! LOL, there was a fellow with a leafblower on that trail, having a happy time blowing last night’s leaves off which also turned me around. Can’t get away from those danged things!
There were, of course, joggers going up the steps…
view from the trail junction
limited exposure view from near the top
Managed on the way back down to find a side route that avoided the lower Torii gate loop, for which I was grateful when I saw the crowds at the bottom again. The food stalls were just opening up, with their “potato tornados” and the other tempting things they offer, and the masses were starting to descend. Ice cream at 9 a.m.? seems popular.
Back to the hotel, by Metro correctly this time, to drop off the fleece and out for pastry before they are sold out. Trying a “millefeuille” with a twist tonight… The shop was incredibly inefficient processing orders and two others left without ordering, exasperated by the delay. Usually shops here are quite efficient, perhaps some staff didn’t show today? – the store was certainly humming.
With the pastry safely in the fridge I downgraded to shorts (no sign of rain) and headed out on foot to the old city area near Maruyama Park (Higashiyama). It took me some time to get oriented as I’d been concentrating on not running into pedestrians when we were here previously on bike, and I hadn’t paid much attention which direction we were going. I’m still very disoriented in this city with even broadstroke directions. There was lots to see as I wandered around though, lots of lovely kimonos in that part of the city, a carnival in a park I cut through, lovely old houses and posh looking hotels… people being carted around by the fit rickshaw drivers, and entertainment provided by cars attempting to drive down pedestrain laden streets.
One of the quieter cobblestoned streets in a park:
I finally found the area I was looking for, and it was awash in people. Lovely area, but super touristy and lots of food for sale which looked to be about double the prices outside the area. No speed walking here – you have to shuffle along with the crowd.
lots of lovely things for sale, though if you are willing to pay the prices.
definitely a hilly part of Kyoto!
There are three or four long streets joined together like this, with a temple and park at the top (of course!)
Fun to shuffle for awhile, but it got a bit much so I had a sit down behind the temple for some water and nuts and caught another three little maids posing under a maple tree.
The temple (Kiyomizudera Temple) was spectacular and is prominent on the skyline in the area. It was also one of the more crowded places I’ve visited in Kyoto.
There was a wedding ceremony going on in the section below this one, with lots of tourists oggling and taking videos…
Wedding pictures happening here too.
My only contribution to the economy in this district was to a coffee shop which I found online (% Arabica was its name) – very busy and you were given a number and waited about 10 mins for the coffee but it was superb and worth the wait (especially as I was able to sit down!).
After that I was fuelled for the long and winding walk home through some charming neighbourhoods and many fewer pedestrians, thankfully.
Lunch/dinner was a local sushi conveyor belt restaurant – about triple the cost of the last one. Good sushi though; I had salmon with sesame, lovely tuna, puffer fish (yes, the most expensive plate!), shrimp and octopus (the latter unintentionally). Good green tea to go with it and less than a block away made it worthwhile.
Back to the hotel for a brief pack and to test the millefeuille; this bakery is meh, it was overbaked. Good but not spectacular overall, 6/10.
A quick walk to the Gion district after dark to see it lit up; it was as busy as during the day but prettier with the lanterns alight.
again, it felt quite touristy and one suspects prices are inflated. The group went out together during the trip and paid a lot of money for Kobe beef dinner, which they said was really good but did cost a lot.
There is a theatre in the district which puts on geisha performances and looks to be popular.
I feel like I have scratched the surface Koyoto; there would be lots of different things to do on a return trip but I feel like I saw a fair bit with the help of the cycling. I don’t think I’d like to be here in spring because of the crowds; it would be a beautiful sight if you can get near it. I’ll rely on Monty Don to film it for me.