In which the conditions are perfect – little wind, sunshine and spectacular vistas!
We packed up and left Kindred Spirits inn at 9 a.m. for the next stop, promised an easy day and lots to see. We were not let down… there was little wind, sunshine but not too hot, and fabulous countryside!
We were almost immediately into Brackley Beach Provincial Park, which features red sandy beaches and outcrops.
looking north
coast looking south
Stunning. Better yet, there was a dedicated cycling trail and yes, it was almost flat! There was another bike group, from FreeWheeling Adventures, that we hopscotched with during the day, though it looked like they were doing an out and back day trip.
a few of our group; we were widely spread out today
Yup, what’s not to smile about here?
note all the dead trees to the right; hurricane kill
wild thyme is prevalent on lawns and verges on PEI and en masse makes a lovely picture
After cycling out of Brackley Beach Park we connected with North Rustico provincial park, more lovely beaches, and a wooden boardwalk along the water and rejoined the route on the highway.
It was actually quite smooth and looked very new.
The main highway was busy, with some ups and downs, so we were quite happy to deviate off after about 10 km onto a side road which wound us around a point and past more fishing farms. We think these were likely mussels, with different looking setups than the oysters we’d been seeing.
They looked older than the oyster systems as well.
there were dingys out working on the systems.
waiting for Karen to take yet another picture!
another nice quiet road
We rejoined the main highway again and then another fairly busy road but at least all had decent shoulders. We stopped at a craft shop recommended for lunch but vetoed the coffee machine (Bun-o-matic) and instead had crackers and cheese on the edge of the fabulous garden that we discovered behind it. It was a beautiful building as well, with lots of natural light and different levels for different artists to display their works. One such was a card designer from North Vancouver, ironically. The garden was well designed and filled with crafty and unusual furniture made from different materials – it was being enjoyed by a large number of people. The lawn rolled down in the distance to the sea – gorgeous.
there were buddhas everywhere – the owner apparently from Bali
all beautifully landscaped and maintained
my favourite part!
The next stop was the start of PEI National Park – sand dunes and beaches featured, and they were popular with masses of people around, however still parking spots in the lot were noted as we cycled out…. It was heavenly to dip the feet in the waves. Sea temperature was fairly cool but it was really refreshing.
After marvelling at the masses at Stanhope Beach we pedalled away, again on a dedicated bike path which was rimmed on either side with a yellow vetch and patches of purple thyme. We have been seeing this all the way along, and on lawns in a mass effect is very pretty, but the combination was lovely.
There were several other beaches along the way, and at the entrance to each a line of cars parked on the shoulder and a traffic marshal turning people away from the parking lots. The long view showed clusters of people, then nothing, then another group, corresponding to the parking lots… amazing sand though. We learned later that Hurricane Fiona in 2022, with sustained winds of 200 km/hr, washed much of the sand dunes away and many places took a couple of years to rebuild the dunes. There were a noticeable number of dead trees on the inland side from the hurricane as well. It was a very pleasant ride, again pedalling along a dedicated cycle path, past a conclave of herons and finally back to civilization.
Our route directed us onto a wharf road for a possible stop at a well-known lobster roll place; the lineup was stretched down the ramp so we rolled by and back to the path which took us directly to our inn on Dalvay Beach. We are still in the park, staying in a period hotel originally owned by an American tycoon, now Parks Canada owned and run. Interesting place, and everything is faithfully in period but close look shows work is badly needed on the exterior.
It’s a huge rambling place, with spacious rooms and a dining room added recently; the only thing lost in the hurricane was a chimney but we all remarked we wouldn’t have wanted to be here during the storm
Definitely a feeling of a different era
A sitting area on the top floor
corridor
gigantic beds
We are across the road from the beach and much of the sand dunes ended up on the grounds, and water up to porch level. The downside of a historical building is that there’s no fridge or coffee making facilities in the room so my brie is on ice with some cream I cadged from the kitchen in a takeaway cup and I’m now ready for my early a.m. coffee (instant).
Dinner was in the dining room and was excellent; I can tick off crab and scallops from my list of seafood to consume in Atlantic Canada as I had starters of both. Everyone was impressed with their dinner selections and the seafood chowders seem to be universally good. Potatoes and fish – how can you go wrong in PEI?
Another shorter cycle tomorrow, but headwinds gusting to 50 km/hr in the forecast so could be interesting.
Highlights: sand of various hues