Day 1 – Arrival in Halifax on the red eye

Dunno why I thought the red eye was a good idea….now I remember, it was the only direct flight 🥺

Decanted bleary eyed at 3 a.m. our time with little sleep…But at least no seat kicking from behing this time. Such an uncomfortable positio to sleep in though, and these seats didn’t seem to have tiltability – not that I’d have used it anyway as the legroom for the row behind is awful with a seat tilted back.

Halifax airport offered uber or taxi to town and it turns out uber is more expensive, so after a tour of the airport with Big Betsy (the bike bag) crashing into every elevator door I used I finally found the taxi area. I had already determined at arrival at YVR yesterday that Betsy doesn’t fit sideways on a baggage cart through the main doors of YVR terminal… The taxi area was very badly signposted – three inquiries, three different directions later, all of course literally the other side of the airport from each other! After one look at my luggage cart I was sent out to the SUV in the taxi lineup but the driver at the head of the queue wasn’t having that – he assured me Betsy would fit in his car with the seats down, and he was quite right (just fit!) so off we trundled. Friendly fellow, and he gave me a bit of a tour enroute – I learned that the downtown area is entirely transforming with all the highway on/off ramps removed and the land underneath reclaimed, now being built on – lots of construction actiivity to be sure. A good breakfast spot and the downtown highlights were also outlined.

Big Betsy waiting at the front door for her trip.

Wonder of wonders, despite arriving at the hotel at 10 a.m. I was able to get into my room immediately – an unexpected bonus, having expected to drop my luggage and be sent out to kill time until the 3 p.m. checkin. A nice harbourview – initially of two cruise ships but after they left that afternoon, of part of the citadel defence system of Halifax on an island and over to Dartmouth. The hotel decor (Westin) is very tired and badly needs refreshing but the staff are amazing – super friendly and helpful, and on the bellhop’s recommendation I phoned down and was brought a microwave and kettle to add to the coffeepot already there (not a Nespresso either, one of my pet peeves is getting that passed off as coffee… ) So was able to unpack and then headed out for breakfast at the Bluenose Cafe. Lovely traditional fishcakes and eggs (yes, I checked they were happy eggs) – it will pass for breakfast and lunch!

Halifax is a pretty city, with lots of separated bike lanes and has lots of green space and historical buildings. Going into the main Bank of Nova Scotia building was like being transported back in time…

Former HQ of the Bank of Nova Scotia, still a functioning branch

It’s been carefully conserved

amazing detail and craftmanship went into the ceiling, doors, floor

doors to the safety deposit area

After brunch I set out to work some of it off, heading steeply uphill towards the Citadel. Totally randomly, I got there just as the noon cannon was set off, then the changing of the guard, then a bagpipe quartet in the courtyard. I learned how well Halifax was defended as a naval port with its multipart citadel system.

Love the naval theme of the lookouts!

Now mostly a military museum

Quite a few people around, thanks to the cruise ships – they cruise from New York to Montreal, and Halifax is a regular stop. There were hordes along the waterfront boardwalk.

Old town Clock Tower enroute to the citadel.

City Hall – and another of many green spots, parks, pedestrian friendly and sitting areas that make Halifax so attractive

downtown with more highly coloured picnic tables!

Walked back along the waterfront boardwalk weaving through masses of restaurants, cafes, stores, and people. The taxi driver had said they weren’t overrun with tourists, as I thought might be the case with the “elbows up” sentiment. I was interested to see a “Peace by Chocolate” store in a prime location on the waterfront, and quite busy – that was a smart business move for high exposure (though high cost I’m sure esp during the quieter winter months).

Interesting schooners and retired destroyer moored at docks. This one sailed in as I neared home again.

It was hot and humid by this point and I was identified as a tourist by carrying my jacket and wearing long pants so after unsuccessfully searching for the “Rum cake” cakeshop on the waterfront and doing several figure 8’s, I headed back to the hotel for a shower and nap, then to reassemble the bike. All went reasonably well until the fender attachment when I discovered I hadn’t brought a crucial wrench, but those can be attached later so no biggie – had some difficulty re-inflating the tires for some weird reason with both Fumpa pump and hand pump but retried several hours later and it worked (doing the same thing….). Ready to ride now, though perhaps not yet in the rain! A quick email to Jill and Henry to see if they could bring the right wrench with them on Saturday…

It cooled down significantly in the evening so I went out for another walk and a visit and chat to the chocolatier conveniently located across the street from the hotel 😊. Good chocolates (Rousseau chocolatier) with some interesting flavours. I was interested to stumble into the Dalhousie campus, interesting after so many years of hearing about it. Picked up some groceries to make lunch for tomorrow, a snack for dinner tonight and dinner tomorrow as I suspect the day’s outing to Peggy’s Cove and Lunenburg will be fairly tiring. The fog has rolled in and there is a 60% chance of showers tomorrow so raingear will be in the pack.

And so ends an eventful day 1!